Oklahoma Vw Cruisers

Well it's finally got warm enough in the garage to work (YEAH!) so here is the to do list:
Clutch and flywheel -- new and improved
Motor and tranny mounts -- new poly
Frame truss -- new EMPI
Engine seals -- flywheel seal, valve covers, and deep oil sump
Push rod tubs -- MST billet aluminum
Swing axle boots -- new
Fuel line rear bulk head to carb -- replace
Art work for fan shroud
Clean everything and repaint as needed
Anything else I find once i get in there..............

Engine out ready to go onto the engine stand for cleaning and further disassembly

Up in the air awaiting motor mount swap and truss installation

That will be cool..................


I know how you feel about the weather also. Been workin on the baja as well, Its nice having the garage door open !

Life is good when you can be out turning wrenches and banging metal! Sure beats working.........

I think we spoke too soon on the oklahoma weather ! Oh well it cant last long i hope

New MST pushrod tubes installed


Old motor mounts ( looks like red cottage cheese)

Things left to do

Lots of fancy new parts. Beefin up the rear for a big turbo motor??? I can't believe those mounts. What brand/how long were they on there?

I can only dream of a Big turbo motor I bought the mounts from Bethany Imports (Bugpack?) about 10 years ago, of course I only put on about 15,000 miles during that time. Yeah I'm not to happy with their performance or longevity so I'm giving CB Performance Gorilla mounts a try and locking down the engine with a Kafer truss bar.

Not conducive to good motor retension or restraint.

looks like you found the source of your wheel hop.

Use HD rubber or solidmount.

Well things where going back together swell, installed all the new parts transaxle should be good and solid now

Added art work to the fan shroud

And installed the new clutch (1700lbs Empi)

I figured it was also a good idea to replace the clutch cable --- But I encountered a minor problem the clutch cable tube had broke loose from its moorings and...

However the old cable was not damaged.
So does anybody know where I can get a new clutch cable tube?????????????

you pulled the metal tube out of the car?

WOW never heard of that one! thats why you had the shakes...........

vdubjim wrote:you pulled the metal tube out of the car?

WOW never heard of that one! thats why you had the shakes...........

Yeah umm i gotta agree with Jim on this one....................... It took me about 5 different power tools and a plasma cutter to get mine out ! AND the pan was cut in half !!!!!

Looks like the PO replaced it before and did a piss poor job of it. It was only held in place by 2 hose clamps on the pedal end. There where excess panels already cut in the back bone really easy and a little unnerving

Heard of some buggy guys using a roll of steel brake line for a replacement ??????? Its like 25 bucks a roll

Some crafty welding, a bit of extra tube and some holes in the tunnel will make that strong as new.

I'm workin on that Luke!!!

So after getting the the new clutch tube in (sorry I didn't take any photos of it) it's on to the next modification.
Some quality time with the grinder and cut-off wheel

Next clean up the cuts and install a removable rear apron

With half turn fastners

Just like our buddy Mal's Bug.

Progress was made this weekend...finally Engine is back in and all hooked up! Yeah!!!

Tried to up date the headlights with visors...ended up cracking one headlight and never got the other one to fit...
freakin cheap ass headlights anyway

Sooooo.....got some different headlights off E-Bay from a 1936 Chevy truck and a same vintage hood ordament...just got to do some resto work on them.

Also adapted a Corvette vaccum line to make a new fuel line that doesn't hang down over the new tin art.

So have been busy !!!! No just thinkin' about wackin' off like some others we all know on here!! LOL

I am now on my second repaint of the new headlights . I'm either working to fast or it's just to damn hot --- but my paint keeps wanting to crackle. The boys at the base Auto Hobby shop don't mind through I'm givin' there media blasting cabinet a good workout. I'll post pic's when there worthy of postin'.

Well here are the new "old" headlights

Also decided to run with out the salt flat discs I'll be prepping and painting the rims soon (don't like the Gold) and I had allot of trash in the carb from it's long spell in the garage. So I did a quickie rebuild and ... all is right now and looking forward to some time behind the wheel.

keep the discs, hide those rubber Pontiac wheels

JP your thinking of these T/A wheels

which are molded from a rubber like material called "Endura" and bonded to a steel wheel (I believe). The wheels on the Tub are solid aluminum. Fronts are 14X7 off of a 80's Bonneville the rears are 15X8 off of a 79 Trans Am.

lites look great, wheels, weeeellllllllll, cover 'em up

The company I bought the headlight visors and stop light viewer from has a website www.koolrides.com they are based out of Arkansas City Kansas.

Well my saga continues --- lost my clutch action on thursday thought maybe the cable stretched -- no -- then thought well maybe my great anchor job on the new clutch tube slipped -- no -- opened up the tunnel again and found that the front brace has now broken loose -- anyone have any advice on converting to hydraulics?????????

weld it. it lasted 40 years.

easiest is this:
https://secure.cbperformance.com/catalo ... uctid=1228

I have seen one a while back that put the master in the tunnel on stock pedal, havent seen in a while

I just tryed to post in the shout box and it would not let me.

I believe this is the setup your refering to Jim;

It's sold through SaCo or German Auto about $250. It would involve the least amount of modifcations to install and could well be worth the extra cost. CNC had a setup for $200 but it did not include tubing and the mastercylinder attach to the clutch pedal requiring holes though the firewall and welding on a tab to the clutch pedal.

do a good, quality job of welding & reinforcing the existing brace. then don't look back, it will last till I die.

gimpy60 wrote:do a good, quality job of welding & reinforcing the existing brace. then don't look back, it will last till I die.

Thats what i did on the bradley. Pics are on its build post.

Well it was the tunnel brace after all just my lousy clamping job soooooooo got the neighbor doin some light welding for me and the Tub will soon ride again

The continuing saga------ So after the poor showing at the Rejects Reliabity Run, I finally pulled the engine a started the investigation as to why I had an Intake Valve stuck open

Upon closer inspection

With further disassembly damage to seat and guide can be seenbut no damage to the valve.

The culprit Where it came from or how it got there are still a mystery!!!!!!!! Anyone know a trusted machine shop close to Del City???

daym!
Only one i trust is local is larry.

WHY is there red RTV on the head???????

Bummer, I remember years ago I rebuilt a Fiat 850 Spyder, did not clean the ring grooves well enough which caused the ring to seize and melt up through the side of the piston, got on top and "textured" the top of the piston and head cavity. Does not take long to do a lot of damage.....

I had Eddie do the heads on the wife's bug, been a few years with no issues.

Jim, I thought you of all people would recognize VW headgasket material! You know to seal any Antifreeze leaks!!!!

swap the heads for some rebuilt units of your choosing, leave the bubble gum off this time!!!!

Dropped the head off at Buddy Rice Machine Shop 1501 W Main OKC should be done by Friday for under $80.00. Seems very few shops can replace valve seats. This place was recommended by Roger at Bethany Imports so will we see how it comes out.

Seems very few shops can replace valve seats. ........ so will we see how it comes out..

I thought the whole idea was for it not to come out.....

put some 1.4 rockers on so that screw can get in the chamber & do some real damage.......

Good to know, wonder what larry charges?

I can get heads in the 150-200 range complete.

Neither Larry nor Eddie will do valve seats. I guess it take specialized equipment and alot of heat.

I just got my head back--not as much damage as I expected they just had to grind the valve seat and hone the guide. Cost??? A measley Grant.
Old VW's take beating with no retreating!!!

Measley? dayum I would like to have a handfull of measley. I run thru 5 of 'em on my m/c trans, mostly on spec. tools. Now get yer arse in gear & get the tub up & goin' , I don't want to have to tell ya agin'. bye now

Engine back together just waitin on some gaskets to arrive from CB Performance. Then install it and drive it like I own it!!!!!!!!

"gaskets to arrive from CB Performance"

eh??

hygh perf. stuff Jimmy, we can't be havin' that junk for our rides, too much hp.

Nay just easier to order on line then go somewhere and buy it!!!!!! I'm gettin "Gimpy" in my old age!!!!

support your local business!

Engines back together and coming off the stand tonite and prepped for install tomorrow!!!

On the road again!!!! Now bring on the winter thaw!!!!!

About a month ago checking all the fluid levels I noticed that the brake fluid was down so started looking for a leak. It was leaking from the back of the master cylinder around the pedal rod. So out it came and down to my local Autozone for an exchange (lifetime warrantied parts are the only way to go). Reinstalled new M/C and thought I would try to vacuum bleed the system resoluting in a hand cramp and a mushy pedal. Then I tried pump bleeding resoluting in a wife complaining about being cold (in her defense my garage is not heated), tired of pumping the brakes, and a mushy pedal. My neighbor (the Corvette guy) said he had an old pressure bleeder that he got from a pawn shop

and I was welcome to give it a try. So after running all over town to find a quick disconnect Hydraulic fitting

(thank you Midwest Hose), making an adapter out of an old M/C cap
,
and cleaning out and refilling the pressure bleeder (God only knows how old the nasty brown fluid in there was), I now have a firm pedal and an air free brake system.

Awesome, squishy pedal is also from shoes that arent curved the same as the drum, pushing the pedal bows the shoe, making it squishy.

Good to know! However I checked and adjusted the shoes when I looked at wheel cylinders for leaks, the drums and shoes where dry and dusty just as they should be with no signs of unusual ware.

So this is a month or so late but I did do some changing to the Tub this fall:
Hood now Scalloped to match the headlights
Faux hood scoop and injector stakes installed plus thunderbolt added and a new rear lower valance made from a screen door guard Next up sand blasting the wheels and then clear coat the raw aluminum and a set of new baloney's as these are over ten years old and the drivers front is full of Slime and keeps going out of balance until the tire warms up and turns it back to liquid instead of gell.

whats on the front fenders?

Looks like a Transformer emblem.

Used Pedal covers with a tribal flame pattern on them that someone returned and we took back as damaged so I put them to use till I weld up the fender holes or replace the fenders.